Rider's Edge Farm

Posted By admin on August 28, 2010

Most people probably don’t ever think about how dirty their horse’s saddle pad might be. Not only can it bother your horse, but it can also shorten the life of the pad itself. A clean pad protects the underside of your saddle and checking it regularly, you can spot signs of saddle-fit problems such as spotty sweat absorption and patchy hair accumulation.

After a few hot, sweaty rides, your horse’s saddle pad can get really nasty. The sweat and hair become stuck on it and can be an irritant to their skin and can even become a breeding ground for germs and bacteria. This can encourage sore skin and muscles, fungus and bald patches. Always check your saddle pad after a ride and clean it as necessary.

Before you clean your pad, you need to know what kind of material it is made of. Then you should concentrate on removing the dried sweat and grime first, then the glued on hair will come off a lot easier. You can use a soft bristle brush and the sticky side of duct tape to remove the hair off of any kind of pad,but especially natural fleece and wools. This only works when done often and when the pad isn’t too dirty.

You can use your home steam cleaner if your pad is cotton, nylon, synthetic fleece or wool. (Use infrequently on real wool.) Always test an inconspicuous area first, to be sure. Use a mild solution, like Woolite and run a second cycle with plain water to rinse it real good, so the soap won’t come in contact with your horse.

Another option would be to use your shop vac. It will help to run a small stream of water on the horse pad before you start vacuuming to get the caked on hair loosened up first. This is a good choice on all materials except for the Neoprene pads which are too smooth to vacuum.

If you have a pressure washer, you can clean nylons and neoprene. You can also take your pad to the carwash in town and hang it up with the floormat hangers. Spray at 45 degree angles to do the best job. Just be ready to take a heavy, soaking wet blanket back to the house. You could throw it in the back of the truck or you could take a washtub with you. When you get home, hang it on the fence to dry. Keep in mind that this may take a day or two.

Something else to try would be your water hose on the slick surfaced pads. You can also hose down nylon, synthetic fleece, synthetic wool, felt and horsehair. You can use a foaming hose attachment with a mild detergent or disinfectant to really do the job. After it is washed, try to wring out some of the water, then hang to dry. Don’t use water on open-cell foam, though. That will ruin it.

Another way to clean your saddle pad is to put it in your bathtub. This would be for the materials that need to be soaked to get clean, like hand dyed real fleeces and wools. These can’t have any leather or trim on them, though. Let it soak 10 minutes, then swish it around in the water. Rinse and hang to dry for a day or two. Then you will need to vacuum it to get the rest of the hair off of it. You could also use a big washtub for this method.

How about using your washing machine? You can clean synthetic fleeces and wools in it. Use the gentle cycle, cold water and a mild detergent. Hang to dry. This method is not for stiff structured pads. Oh yeah! You might want to run an empty cycle to get all of the hair out of the machine before someone washes a load of clothes in it.

Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Gary_H

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Posted By admin on August 20, 2010

Equine influenza is a highly contagious flu-like virus that spreads quickly among horses. The good news is that it is rarely fatal in healthy horses. Zebras, donkeys and debilitated horses are not as lucky and may succumb to the disease. There are two types of the virus: Orthomyxovirus A/Equi-1 and Orthomyxovirus A/Equi-2. The latter has caused epidemics in equine populations and has become endemic in some countries.

The disease varies in severity depending on the overall condition of the horse. Factors such as age and health determine how severe the infection will be. Most horses recover over a period of a few days. The first sign of equine influenza is an elevated temperature, this rise is usually in the range of 38C (101F) to 41 C (106F). 37C to 38C is the normal range of temperature for horses. The horse will seem lethargic and less alert.

The next symptom is usually a dry hacking cough which becomes moist over a period of a few days. Nasal discharge will be apparent and the horse may experience loss of appetite, in fact equine influenza symptoms closely resemble human flu symptoms. To confirm the diagnosis and to rule out other more serious respiratory conditions such as viral arteritis and rhinopneumonitis, the vet will take a nasal swab and run some blood tests.

Unless there are complications, supportive care and rest is all that is needed for recovery. For each day of fever, the horse must be rested for a week, the minimum rest period being three weeks. NSAIDs and antibiotics may be prescribed by the vet if the horse has a fever over 40C (104F) or if the fever persists for more than 3-4 days. If there is a risk of pneumonia or pus in the nasal discharge, the vet will recommend the use of antibiotics and NSAIDs.

Due to the fact that there is no cure for the flu, prevention is necessary. Good husbandry and management practices along with a vaccination programme prevent the spread of the disease. The introduction of new horses to a stable or barn should entail a two week isolation period to avoid the spread of the virus. The virus is transmitted easily between horses through the inhalation of respiratory secretions and an infected horse can infect others by simply coughing. As with all viruses equine influenza is spread through the air. Nasal and intramuscular vaccinations help prevent infection in healthy horses your veterinarian should be able to advise you on which to use depending on your location and your horse’s environment and overall health.

Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Josie_Amani

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Posted By admin on August 8, 2010

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Posted By admin on August 3, 2010

Did you ever daydream that you could use horse stall mats and improve your life? Plenty of people have already done that. Most never get past the daydream stage. Many lacked the will to look into, learn and then get going, so are even now just dreaming.

Let’s just hold on here now. We looked at plenty of negatives at the start of this, all the why nots. Let’s consider three reasons why you should use horse stall mats.

Firstly, on the positive side, allow me to point out that rubber mats protect your horses feet and prevent lameness and injury.. O.K., I hear your objection, that one piece horse stall mats are a pain to lay in stalls and to move around. It’s a valid objection, I agree. However, let me bring to your attention the point that horses hooves are delicate, and need to be protected. This isn’t only about comfort- it makes good business sense too and cuts down on vet bills.

Second, you should consider the mats come in a variety of sizes- interlocking mats sit tight, while one piece mat can be cut to fit the stall. In addition to that, horse stall flooring keeps your animals in shape and ready for fun, by reducing stress. As well as, proper equestrian flooring keeps your barn clean.

Third, you have fewer flies in the barn because mucking out is a lot easier. This means that healthier horses and lower barn costs. And on top of that, you will have more time to enjoy animals when they’re not lame or tender!!

Once you have had a chance to look over the reasons, and think about them, you’ll find that a great case can be made in favor of use horse stall mats. Look at this seriously for a moment. Perhaps you really, in all seriousness, should get such mat.

Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Earle_Sandholm

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Posted By admin on July 22, 2010

When you are looking for equine insurance, whether for medical expenses, liability or even mortality insurance, it is wise to get horse insurance quotes for the best coverage possible. Attempting to save on horse insurance may end up costing you in the long run, for several reasons. Believe it or not, horse insurance is quite possibly the most important horse equipment you can purchase!

The main function of liability insurance is to protect you in the event that you get sued for something your horse does. Horses are very large animals and can injure people and damage property without even trying. In spite of some very good state laws that are meant to protect equine people from frivolous lawsuits, in American anyone is allowed to sue anyone for anything. Having a good liability insurance policy will mean that your insurance company will represent you in court and will pay if a settlement is reached or if the court rules against you.

Horse mortality insurance pays off if your horse dies, which may protect you from the loss of prize money if you compete in high-level shows. You will have money to help purchase another horse, as well as help with the burial expenses. Besides these two basic functions of mortality insurance, many policies include coverage for colic surgery or even loss-of-use coverage if your horse becomes unusable but doesn’t actually die.

Medical or health insurance for a horse is also very important because when a horse gets ill, the veterinary expenses can be huge — especially if you have to take him to a horse hospital. Having some good insurance to cover that kind of unexpected expense may make the difference between being able to seek the best care and losing your beloved horse.

Try to gather at least three horse insurance quotes before you choose a policy, and make sure you are comparing apples to apples. Don’t go with the minimum coverage amounts; make sure you are protecting your investment in your wonderful equine friend.

Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Y._Gorely

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Posted By admin on July 13, 2010

If you think about horse equipment that horses like the least, horse clippers probably come to mind.  However, it is possible to slowly and patiently teach your horse to accept them and stand quietly for a clipping.  Here’s how.

This method will require about a month of daily work and possibly longer.  So be prepared to be very patient!  This is not an overnight fix, but will last the horses’ lifetime.

On the first day, all you need to do is show your horse the clippers and let him sniff them.  The clippers are turned off, and as soon as your horse sniffs them, shower him with praise and feed him a treat.  That’s it, you are done for the day! The next day, do the same thing again and again the next.  When your horse starts expecting a treat the minute he has sniffed the clippers then you are ready to move on.  Your horse has made a connection in his brain between the clippers and treats.

With your horse in the cross ties, plug the clippers in, turn them on and hold them away from your horse.  If he stands quietly without fear, give him a treat and turn them off.  The goal here is to desensitize your horse to the sound of the clippers.  Do this for several days until he starts looking for a treat the minute you turn on the clippers.

The next step is to touch the clippers to your horse’s neck while they are turned on and have him stand quietly.  The reward is a treat and turning the clippers off.  So, with your horse in cross ties, turn the clippers on and rest them against his neck.  If he moves, try to keep the clippers there until he stands quietly.  Then give him a treat and turn them off.  Keep doing this until it’s very easy to do, and he appears to have accepted them on his neck totally.

The next step is to simply move them around on his neck.  Reward for standing quietly while you rub the clippers all over his neck.  When that is easy, you can start moving the clippers to more sensitive areas like the face and bridle path, using the same reward for good behavior: a treat and turning the clippers off.

Eventually, with enough time, patience and experience, your horse will stand so quietly while you rub the clippers anywhere you want that you’ll know you can begin actually clipping. Congratulations! You have trained your horse to accept the horse clippers.

Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Y._Gorely

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Posted By admin on July 6, 2010

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Posted By admin on June 26, 2010

Extreme heat temperatures, UV rays, chemicals and solvents will damage the foam in a helmet. For these reasons a riding helmet should not be stored where temperatures can exceed 40 degrees Celsius, left out in the sun or stored near any chemicals. This would include a vehicle on a hot day, in a cabinet or tack box with bug repellent or bleach in it, or in a tack room with sunshine peaking through the window onto the helmet.

To clean a helmet use a mild detergent on the exterior for hard shell helmets, or use a brush on velvet. Helmet deodorizers and cleaners are available on the market and are recommended for the inner lining. Never leave a helmet in direct sunlight or near a heat source to dry.

Article Source- http://www1.agric.gov.ab.ca/$department/deptdocs.nsf/all/aet12574#care

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Posted By admin on June 24, 2010

Corns

Symptoms are the production of mild and often intermittent lameness.  It is more obvious when a horse turns on the effected foot.  It can be caused from bruising between the hoof walls and the bars of the horses foot.  Flat footed horses and horses with thin soles are more susceptible.  It can be resultant of standing on a solid object such as a stone or can be caused from working on hard ground.

Laminitis

Symptoms include a reluctance to move, the transfer of weight to the back of the heels of the feet often making the horse seem to be leaning back and outting his forefeet out in front.  The feet are usually warm with digital pulses.  It is classically seen in horses that are overweight and rarely / irregularly exercised most commonly during the lush growth of grass in the spring.  It may also occur after a horse eats excessive amounts of carbohydrates and after having diarrhea.  Sometimes if a horse bears too much weight on an opposing limb to a lame one this can also trigger laminitis. Hard ground can also be a causative factor.

Overreaching

This is the brushing of the toe of the rear hoof onto the bulbs of the heels or coronary band of a forelimb.  This often results in severe lameness but is relative to the wound caused.

Nail Bind or Prick

This is caused by the application of the horses shoe too tightly or closely to the sensitive white line of the hoof (bind) or of the foot (prick).  This can cause moderate to severe lameness with a negative reflex occurring when the offending nail is pressed.  These symptoms will usually occur after shoeing.

Thrush

Symptoms include a black horn of the frog with it being moist and smelly.  This is due to it being infected.  There can be no lameness in some cases.  This occurs due to poor hygiene and failure to clean out the feet regularly.  Often due to horses standing in damp, dirty moist conditions for extended periods of time.

Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Tammy_Patterson

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Posted By admin on June 18, 2010

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